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Obana first created Awesome welcome To Elm Streeet Skull Shirtwhen he started, 18 seasons ago. Given the twist on British fashion, one saw all the usual tropes: trench coats and schoolboy shorts and pinstripe suits, as well as a punky red plaid, which Obama had pulled from Undercover designer Jun Takahashis archive. (A special tag read Rebel Print by Undercover.) Obama also created a graphic of pharmaceutical pills, which could have read as a tired reference to punk drug culture, but it actually came from an oddly pleasing spam email that reminded Obana of English artist Damien Hirsts 1992 Pharmacy installation and helped make it his own. Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said hes trying to make an artists wardrobe and who doesnt want to look like an artist, right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, hes tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elskens Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczeks The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taros bravery and resolve (if you dont know it, please Google her story; its amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Not intentionally, but back when Nylon was a fashionable material for swimwear, Ive deliberately bought one a size or two too small (since they used to stretch very well!), forgetting that Nylon also becomes a LOT more translucent when wet. Wore that number on a local beach, and had a mortifying experience after a swim. Suffice to say relatives told me that I may as well have been completely naked – so that was the last time that item was worn.
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